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Posted : admin On 1/10/2022

This is my second time grading a pattern and although I hit some frustrating moments including trying to fix the wonky curves, the categorizing/naming part of the pattern turned out to be trickier. Lounge pants? Pajamas pants? But they’ve been worn outdoors too. Yes, I usually make these pants out of cute flannel prints for around the house but I’ve also made them out of cotton, cotton jersey, denim, linen blend, fleece and also sweater fleece. So, finally I just went with something simple and less ambiguous…The Kids Pants Pattern. Ok, so the name is not so snazzy but these pants can be as fancy as you can get it to be! Like cropping the legs and adding some fun ruffles to the hem. Or sewing some patch pockets on top which is faster and easier than seam pockets in my opinion. Oh, a lady recently asked if these pants were from the bloomers I had made a while back, *right here*. Actually, the bloomers (or shorts) were made from this pattern. If I’m making shorts for my daughter, I’ll just lop off the pattern’s legs and leave a 1.5” inseam and about 7” for my son. Just play around with the length of the inseam to make different types of shorts.

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For now, let’s make these simple and less ambiguously-named pants.

Things You Will Need:

Fabric of choice (I’m using a flannel here)

¾” Knit elastic


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Matching thread

Print pattern *here*

This pattern is FREE to all my newsletter subscribers. Check both your inbox and junk folder for the confirmation email. Be sure to have your pop up blocker disabled. Print from a laptop or computer.

The first page of the pattern has the one inch test square so I always recommend printing out the first page and checking the test square before printing out all the other pages. Make sure to check off “Do Not Scale” or “Actual Size” on your printer. Also, be sure to check the proportions between the finished garment measurements and the child’s measurements before cutting out the fabric.

Put the pattern together by matching the gray rectangles and either tape or glue the papers. After checking the measurements cut out the size that you want. My daughter is 2 and will be turning 3 by the end of this month. I usually sew the 5T for her because I like roomy pants for lounging around the house but I decided to go with the 3T this time to see how they would fit her. I really like how the 3T have a slenderer fit on her which I think will look great in denim or even a heavier knit. The 3T’s inseam also hit her just right on the ankles. I’ve also added a “Lengthen/Shorten Line” so the pants’ legs so that it can be adjusted to the child’s height. When I sew the 5T for her, I’ll shorten the legs to the size of the 3T and then redraw the curve of the legs.

*The inseam and outseam have a 3/8” seam allowance included. I added another ¼” seam allowance because I’m using my serger. So, feel free to add or detract from the seam allowance.

1.Press fabric so there are no wrinkles and then fold it. Place the pattern on top and cut out the fabric. *I didn’t press my fabric and the pieces came out larger than my pattern. Learn from my mistakes. LOL.

2.Fold each piece and sew the inseams with a 3/8” seam allowance. Serge or zig zag the raw edges to keep them from fraying.

3.Turn one inside out and insert it into the other piece. Match the crotch seams and then pin all around.

4.Sew with a 3/8” seam allowance and then finish the edges with a zig zag stitch or a serger.

5.Cut a piece of ribbon that’s about 2 ½” long. This is will be the tag the goes on the inner back side of the pants.Cut the waistband 2 ½” wide. The length of the waistband should be the same as the waist measurement of the pants. *My waistband ended up being 23” instead of 22” because I skipped pressing the fabric before I started cutting. Oops!

6. Fold the waistband in half and make a ring by sewing it closed with a ¼” seam.

7.Place the ribbon tag on the inside of the pants and tack it down about 1/8” from the raw edge but within the ¼” seam allowance.

8. Pin the waistband to the pants right sides together and sew with a ¼” seam.

9.Press the waistband up.

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10. Fold and press the raw edge of the waistband under ¼”.

11. Bring the fold down so that it’s touching the first seam line.

12. Sew close to the edge. Leave about a 2” opening for the elastic to be inserted.

13. For the elastic – I usually cut it 2” shorter than the waist measurement plus ½” if I’m overlapping. So, my elastic was 17 ½”. Mark the measurement on the elastic and pin a safety needle through one end.

14. Insert the elastic through the opening of the waistband and pull on the safety pin until it comes out on the other side of the opening.

15. Overlap the elastic edges and zig zag stitch over it several times. Shut the opening by sewing close to the folded edge.

16. The hem is the last thing that needs to be done. Fold up ¾”. If you’re using cotton, you can use an iron to keep the fold up neatly. I’m using flannel and pressing the fold doesn’t do it any good so I used pins to keep it folded.


17. Fold under again ¼” so that the fold that’s facing you is only ½” big. Then sew all around close to the hem.

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And that’s it! They’re so easy to make that sometimes I’ll end up making 2 or 3 pairs at once. I’ll be adding more variations like adding ruffles to the hem in another tutorial so be on the lookout for that.

If you end up making these, let me know what you think and what other patterns you’d like to see here. Happy sewing!